TURMHOF Vernatsch 2017 – Review in “De Volkskrant”
I love crispy, feather-light, sparkling red wines. Of course, I’m not avoiding the tough guys, but you have to sit down for that. They demand attention and which I don’t always have. For light red wines I have much more time in this busy life. A good Beaujolais and Gamay from the Loire for example. Spätburgunders, who seem casually but make me bounce with their depth. But my Italian secret, my silent love, are the translucent red wines of the vernatsch grape from Südtirol / Alto Adige. It was always so ‘normal’ (vernatsch is derived from the Latin vernaculus, ‘from here’) that nobody promoted it much. Importers of the mostly brilliant white wines from the Italian region ignore him. No request for this grape, they think. Vinites is a happy exception. They have the Vernatsch 2017 from the Tiefenbrunner family, which has owned the Turmhof for five generations. Slightly cool, it is a blissful wine, transparent garnet red, aroma’s of cherries and roses, oh so light-hearted and at the same time concentrated. Not cheap, that’s right, but so deliciously different that I highly recommend it. Alpine glow in a bottle.
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